After living in Bangkok for five months, it was time to say farewell to South East Asia. To celebrate this occasion my Brazilian friend decided to take me to the German restaurant Sühring. I was absolutely shocked by the food! I’ve never tasted better German food in my live so far and since. (And I am German.) The twin brothers, Mathias and Thomas took a modern twist to the German cuisine adding their personal note and thereby elevating it to a new level.
On the day we visited the restaurant Sühring, the brothers were in Singapore for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 award show where they achieved the 45th place. Just recently they were ranked No 6th best Asian restaurant, the highest rank a restaurant from Bangkok achieved. Well-deserved, they’ve been greatly awarded for their extraordinary work.
Atmosphere.
The restaurant is in the bustling heart of Bangkok in a quiet, residential neighbourhood. When arriving in the neighbourhood, we were actually unsure if the taxi was taking us the right way. Thankfully, it did, and we arrived at an amazingly renovated 1970s villa. Before entering the building, you are walking through the luscious front garden. Once you reach the restaurant, you don’t feel like you just stepped into a restaurant, it feels like you walked into someone’s home. From the “kitchen” where you a can watch the magic happen and the cosy one room “living room” for private parties to the “dining hall” where we had chosen to sit, the rooms are all cosily warm decorated. The most special room is the “Wintergarten” the glass-ceiling atrium overlooking the tropical garden. This will be my choice when I visit again. Also, I can recommend arriving before sunset so the garden can be enjoyed during daylight.
Food.
Abroad, German cuisine is mostly known for fatty pork knuckles, pretzels, wurst or sauerkraut. At restaurant Sühring, chef’s Mathias and Thomas are using traditional German dishes and flavours but gave it a modern and personal notch. Resulting in a sophisticated seasonal haute cuisine menu. The tasting menu is divided into three chapters with some extra dishes like the famous Berlin currywurst 36 (a must try!).
Chapter One.
Starting with warm soft pretzels, obatzler dip and a tiny beer mug, I actually had a “ratatouille moment”. In the movie, the restaurant tester remembered a childhood moment when tasting the ratatouille. Eating this amazing cheese based creamy dip after eating spicy Asian cuisine for five months, evoked a nostalgic moment in me.
This first course was followed by a chicken salad biscuit, tasting extremely fresh and well-balanced. Succeeded by small whole grain quadrants topped with herring. These are quite famous in northern Germany and were just enticing. After that we stayed foodwise in northern Germany with a delightful combination of beef & shrimps.
The highlight of the first chapter was the heavenly “Enten Leber Tafel – Enleta” – self-made duck liver bar. It is actually a reference to the famous and widely known German chocolate bar called “Hanuta”. It was a great combination of the rich and creamy duck liver hugged by two crispy waffles.
Following the German currywurst is quite special as it comes directly from the famous Berlin currywurst 36 stand. I must say that to me it was not as special as the dishes before, however, for my Brazilian friend it was an absolute highlight. It tastes smoky and herby. And is a must if you haven’t tried it before.
Chapter Two.
The second chapter commenced with another typical Berlin dish called Aalgrün. It is eel typically cooked in light herb sauce, a delectable combination.
Followed by my personal highlight of the whole menu, the “Brotzeit”. Self-made rye bread accompanied with homemade pickles, caviar and house butter. I have never tasted bread that good in my life. Bread making itself is a highly complex and sensible matter. If I remember correctly, we were told that the dough for this bread is being fermented for 7 years. Also, bread with a spread could not be more ordinary, it’s by far the most eaten dish in Germany. Including a self-made bread of this kind in an haute cuisine tasting menu, for me, is the prove that the Sühring brothers are at the forefront of German gastronomy.
The Leipziger Allerlei that followed was an exquisite dish using the ingredients of the season, like peas and cauliflower. Subsequently, the sturgeon cooked on cedar had a lovely zesty flavour.
Followed by the signature spätzle, egg noodles originating from southern Germany, which are coming from a traditional recipe the brother made their own. Now it features allgauer mountain cheese, crispy shallot, and generous shavings of black truffles.
The last plate for chapter two was the divine wagyu beef sirloin with asparagus and ramson, marvelous.
Chapter Three.
The third chapter began with a dish consisting of green apple and celery two very typical German ingredients, leaving a fresh and luscious feeling. Oh god, the Strawberry, rhubarb and honey cake was absolutely to die for and so beautifully served. The following special eggnog is coming from a recipe from the brother’s grandmother. It made you feel like it was Christmas time. The whole experience was finished by the exciting opening of the sweets box revealing deliciously filled chocolate pralines.
The End.
What an amazing experience through and through. The traditional German dishes with the personal take away from the brother made the food an experience itself. But not to forget the absolute amazing attentive and caring waiters showing Thai hospitality at its best.
Who I can recommend this restaurant to? Just everyone – For Germans living abroad and wanting to have a taste of home or for Asians tasting the modern German cuisine. Maybe it will even change the stereotypical view on the German gastronomic scene.
For more information have a look at the restaurants website.
Last visit was in June 2019.
Morning Glory – must try when in Hoi An